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| Monte Capanne |
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| 360° Panorama from Monte Capanne |
The evolution is now inevitable. Among the thousand places I have been able to reach always starting from home on foot, I believe I have reached a limit because there is not much left that is interesting to explore from my residence. Therefore, with this adventure, I am starting a new way of doing long-distance walks, transforming this passion into TRAVEL TRAILER, because the places in the world to visit on foot over great distances are many, infinite!
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| Tour of Elba Island from Lacona to Monte Capanne |
Let's talk about the journey around Elba Island. The tour took place on July 24, 2021, starting at 5:45 AM from Stella Mare camping in Lacona (Capoliveri beach). The journey began by following the route created the night before on the computer and loaded onto the wrist GPS. For me, the wrist GPS is an indispensable tool that allows me to embark on hikes never seen or attempted before in a fairly immediate and easy way. Using an old map on-site every time there's a doubt about the path would interrupt the journey too often and make it difficult to stay within acceptable timing.
The tour of Elba Island in the direction of Monte Capanne immediately proved to be tortuous and full of steep climbs on uneven trails, rich in boulders and deep ruts left by motorcycles and rainwater.
Initially, after a brief illusion of 'speed,' I faced the first steep climb, which is not so bad when you're still fresh and full of energy—you easily overcome all difficulties. The real challenge, however, comes later. After passing the small plain of the Lacona area, I began the steep climb towards Monte Barbatoia (359m), passing through Serra del Pero. Upon reaching the ridge, you can glimpse the two sea sides of the island through the trees. I proceed, skirting the summit of Monte San Martino (370m) with a progressive upward direction. I am on the GTE (Grande Traversata Elba). I reach the mountain site 'Costa del Gualdarone,' and the photos fly. From here, I start descending at a fairly smooth pace, one of the few stretches where I can run on the trail. I arrive at the settlement and find myself in Literno, skirting a flat path along 'Via per Portoferraio,' with an unexpected obstacle: a large gate in the middle of a road marked on the map! I climb over it.
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| La Pila Airport seen from the hills |
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| Monte Capanne in the distance |
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| Typical stretch of steep, uneven trail |
A new climb begins, passing through Vigne Giunche, following the dirt road "Via dei Forcioni" up to Poggio San Prospero (402m). From here, a dense forest starts with a steep climb that will take me to Monte Perone (603m), a stunning place but marred by large phone repeaters (a common reality on many peaks of the island). Then I pass through a picnic area with many tables and a small closed wooden shelter. I gain more altitude and reach Monte Maolo (750m) and shortly after, I forget to check the GPS at a junction and take the wrong path, climbing for a good kilometer towards Monte Le Calanche (which I will cross on the way back) and retrace my steps to get back on track. I am at the limit of the island's vegetation, and long stretches of rugged scree along the edge of the cliff begin. I climb further, and here the via ferrata paths arrive at the foot of Monte Capanne (1019m), which I reach the summit with some climbing. There are many people up there, and soon I discover the reason: there is a chairlift. Upon arrival, I sit on the highest rock and start with some video and panoramic photos. It is beautiful to see the entire sea and clearly the outline of the whole island. Italy on one side, Capraia Island, and other islets of the Tuscan Archipelago. The breathtaking panorama makes it feel like being on top of the world on this small Elba Island! I go in search of the bar, but it is closed, a bit disheartening because I have less than half a liter of water left in my bottle. So, I switch from one sip every 30 minutes to one sip every hour. It is not easy to endure and go on despite everything; the heat is intense (I estimate 35 degrees) and the sun is scorching.
After Monte Capanne, I begin the return journey, different from the outbound route, and more rugged. I retrace the via ferrata paths and start a dense series of consecutive peaks. So, along the ridge, I cross many boulders, proceeding slowly but with great attention to the dangers, reaching Monte Calanche already mentioned (905m) and still along the ridge arriving at the summit of Monte Tiratoio (810m). From these hills, I see valleys on one side leading to the sea and a deep cliff on the other side. I cross a steep scree and reach Masso della Quata (746m), a very dry place where I notice ancient stone constructions, reinforced in more recent times, I believe with reinforced concrete. Here I also find some basins that may have been made by humans to collect the scarce rainwater. I go on for several kilometers, and the temperature becomes unbearable. Only dry and prickly bushes, but here in some stretches, I manage to run even though I am very dehydrated.
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| 180° Photo during the ascent |
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| Various directions |
I hold on a bit longer and arrive at the first village descending from Monte Capanne and find the much-desired fountain in San Piero di Campo (250m), where I literally throw myself under it, drinking who knows how much, filling my bottles, and eating something. I slowly pass through the village because, after all that water at once, I know it's better to wait before running again to avoid stomach problems... This often happens to inexperienced athletes. After about twenty minutes, I briefly return to the asphalt and start jogging again, then back on the dirt road, where I find a beautiful little church that I photograph without stopping too long. I cross the dry riverbed Fosso del Bovalico and enter a new municipality (Marina di Campo); by now, I am on the coast at sea level.
Little church between San Piero and Marina di Campo
It's strange how, in a maritime situation, you gain and lose elevation, often reaching zero level (at sea), an unusual situation for someone like me, accustomed to the high alpine altitudes of the Po Valley. I had been dreaming of a nice coffee and a bottle of sparkling water for a while. So, I continue along the coast, scanning the places in search of a bar. I find a busy kiosk and, with my mask on, I stop, taking the opportunity to share my adventure with the barista and asking for some information about the remaining route. I enjoy everything while sitting at a quiet table and then resume a good pace, jogging through the small flat areas present, and soon the steep climbs resume, just to keep the habit.
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| Panoramic view towards the sea |
I am nearing the end of the adventure now, but the hills are certainly not lacking! I pass Colle la Foce, and the trail in this stretch is truly uneven, with huge boulders that seem like disorganized steps. Another long stretch and I reach a new repeater on Monte Tambone (377m), where I take a forced break to eat and, most importantly, to recharge my precious GPS with a backup battery. I take the opportunity to make a phone call as well. About 20 minutes pass, and the watch battery is alive again. I pack everything back into the backpack and resume the journey shrouded in fog. A steep descent begins, and I start to see my beach (Lacona) in the distance, and at the far end, Capoliveri beach. I don't stop anymore; I take the wrong path once again for about 600m, but it's not a big deal, and I quickly get back on the right track.
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| Visual to sea |
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| The coast in the distance |
I thus reach the main road, position myself on Lacona's bike path, and cross it all. Climbing towards the campsite, I record the last video. In 12 hours and 20 minutes, I complete this adventure, not very long but very concentrated in elevation changes, in fact, it is 41km with a total of 5106m of elevation gain! Ritual photo in front of the camper, and then a well-deserved rest. I must say that the old foundations created with the Mono-training strategy for ultratrail have effectively shown themselves... Very satisfied, also because, in a life of long-distance walking, my knees are still healthy, which is rare even due to age limits!
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| Arrival |
On a future occasion, it will definitely be necessary to do the tour on the other side of the island with Portoferraio, Monte Calamita, etc...
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